I'd say get the Z1 and don't worry about anything else. Z1 fluid is "friction modified," whatever that means, but to me it yields shifts that feel like what I used to get with the Mobil 1. The shifts were firmer with the synthetic. I used Dexron II a couple of times when the car was new and then switched to synthetic at about 40,000 miles. The current standard is Dexron III so if you want to go cheaper, and possibly not get the best results, you could use that.
Technically, these transmissions stated that you could use Dexron II and that was back in the 80's. It takes three quarts for a drain and refill.
You can order the Honda fluid online (eBay), but shipping costs will be high and you might end up better off paying $8 a quart at the dealer. The synthetic stuff is just as expensive these days, anyway. The company that rebuilt it works with only Honda and Acura transmissions and recommends using ONLY Honda Z1 fluid. I used Mobil 1 synthetic fluid in mine for years until it died at 300,000 miles.
Best honda transmission fluid manual#
The way the manual is worded now, if you take it in for a fluid exchange, and they flush it, and it wrecks the transmission and you sue Honda, Honda can say “we did not tell you to get a flush - sue Jiffy Lube.Far be it from me to tell you to use the search feature - because I just love talking about ATF. I can see some significant legal pitfalls if the manual called for a flush, because then someone would go to Jiffy Lube, get the bad flush, their transmission would have problems, and then they’d sue Honda because “well you TOLD me to get a flush!”
I’m guessing the shortened interval after the first time is to account for the fact that not all fluid gets exchanged in a drain and fill (and I could probably extend my exchanges to 50k intervals as a result, but I don’t). My manual recommends the first drain/fill at 50k, and every 30k thereafter. That does not mean that a “flush” as described in Tester’s article (which I think should be called an “exchange” to avoid confusion) should not be performed - merely that it’s above and beyond what you are required to do to properly maintain it. In fairness, a drain and fill is all you have to do per the service manual. Option 1 is also the best choice if you’re experiencing torque converter shudder, hard shifting and sticking. Is Honda among them? If not, it doesn’t belong in this conversation. transmission and make it last longer If so, follow the Option 1 section of this chart: If you’re looking to protect the current fluid or you’re servicing the fluid using the OEM recom-mended fluid, then Option 1 is what you need.
I went ahead and let them flush-and-fill my car’s cooling system, but next time I’ll just drain and refill it myself, like I do with my motorcycle. The last time I asked a shop to drain and refill my car’s coolant, they said they don’t do that anymore they only do flushing. If you want to get all OCD about it, you can do it more often than the owner’s manual recommends (like every 30,000 miles instead of every 60,000 miles), but you still don’t need a flush, just a drain-and-refill.įrankly, these flush machines are getting out of hand. If you read your owner’s manual, I think you’ll find in the maintenance section a recommendation to change (just drain and refill) the transmission fluid every so often, probably every 60,000 miles, and that’s all you really need. Now they need those machines to generate enough income to cover the payments on those machines, so they recommend transmission flushes every chance they get. Ever since people discovered that draining and refilling an automatic transmission only replaces about 2/3 of the fluid, dealerships and repair shops have been buying transmission flush machines to satisfy their customers’ OCD.
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